Paldor Peak Climbing (5896m)

Paldor lies at the southeast end of Ganesh Himal marking the junction of the Tiru and Karpu Dandas at the head of the Mailung Khola, a tributary of the Trisuli Gandaki River. The name Ganesh is taken from the elephant-headed Hindu god of good luck, probably the most popular deity in the Kathamndu valley. On a clear day the Ganesh Himal, with the icy fangs of Pabil (7,101m/23,300ft), Logsang Karpo (7,150m/23,458ft), Ganesh I (7,406m/24,298ft) and Ganesh V (6,950m/22,802ft) can be seen forming an imposing backdorp to the northwest of Kathamndu. The quickest approach to Paldor and Ganesh Himal is from Sabru near Dunche in the Trisuli valley, which can be reached in a 6 to 7 hours drive from Kathmandu. From here the trail crosses the Langtang Khola to Sabrubesi. After crossing the Bhote Kosi river the route leads via Tamang villages of Tangjet and Gatlang, then heads northwards along the ridge before dropping into the forest above Mailung Khola to pick up the newly built road that leads to an army post. The moraine filled valley below Paldor is reached from here in another days walk. A more interesting approach is the trek from Sundarijal (on the outskirts of Kathmandu valley) through the hills of Helambu and over the Gosainkunda range to Sabru. The return from the mountain can be made by trekking directly to Trisuli Bazaar.

South - East Ridge
John Cleare and Ian Howell first climbed this in 1974. Between Tilman's ascent in 1949 and Cleare's expedition of 1974 it is possible that Paldor had no other ascents. Since then the mountain has received more attention and many new routes added.

This route climbs the long snow and ice arête that descends to the fine rock peak of Fang. The lowest point of this ridge is best reached, from a high camp on the Paldor Glacier East, by a steep snow and ice slope (55 degrees). The ridge has also been reached via a potential avalanche couloir from the Paldor Glacier West. The ridge is above is followed, in places quite steeply, but without major difficulty to the summit. A combination of both these routes has been made as a traverse and is highly recommended.

North - East Ridge
From base camp, follow a path below the conspicuous moraine on its east side as far as Paldor Tarn. Here there is a small and inconspicuous lake to the south of the peak called Fang. Cross the stream issuing from the lake and aim for the east ridge of Fang. These boulders slope is the Paldor Glacier east at an altitude of 5,200 meters, in a magnificent amphitheatre of alpine - scale peaks. The glacier at this point is flat and uncomplicated by crevasses.

From high camp follow the Paldor Glacier, East, without difficulty, north towards a col on the North - East Ridge. Cross the bergscrund and climb a steep snow slope to gain the col. This may be very difficulty, in which case ascend the slope to the left, climbing diagonally towards a rocky pinnacle. Once on the ridge, climb over several pinnacles of loose rock leading to a horizontal snow arête that narrows dramatically. Follow this foot of the final 150 meters (492 feet) headwall. Ascend this on steep snow to the junction of the South- East Ridge, which may be corniced. Continue easily to the summit. This is Alpine AD climbing and takes five to seven hours from high camp.

Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to hotel
Day 02: Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley
Day 03: Kathmandu to Dhunche; bus (1950m)
Day 04: Trek to Syabrubese
Day 05: Syambru Besi to Thangjet (1676m)
Day 06: Thangjet to Yuri Kharka Camp
Day 07: Yari Kharka to Below Lari Mine
Day 08: Lari Mine Camp to Base Camp
Day 09: BC Rest Day for Acclimatize
Day 10: Base Camp to High Camp
Day 11: Climbing Palder Back to Base camp
Day 12: Base Camp to Lari Mine
Day 14: Lari Mine to Yari Kharka
Day 15: Yari Kharla to Thangjet
Day 16: Trek to Sybru Bensi (1450m)
Day 17: Drive to Kathmandu (1350m)/Hotel
Day 18: Bhaktapur and Patan sightseeing and return
Day 19: Free day in Kathmandu for shopping or relax
Day 20: Drive to Airport for flying your own destination

Peak Climbing in Nepal